HERE WE HAVE FILLED THE INTERIOR FOOTINGS WITH CONCRETE AND
COVERED THE ENTIRE HEATED AREA OF THE HOUSE WITH A VAPOR
BARRIERAND A 1 INCH LAYER OF RIGID INSULATION BOARD.
ON TOP OF THE INSULATION BOARD, WE LAY DOWN THE 6 INCH BY 6 INCH REINFORCING MESH WHICH NOT ONLY ADDS STRENGTH TO THE CONCRETE
SLAB, BUT ALSO GIVES THE PLUMBER SOMETHING TO TIE THE RADIANT HEAT TUBING TO. THIS TUBING IS A "PEX" TUBING WITH AN OXYGEN BARRIER.
NO JOINTS ARE UNDER THE SLAB, AND ALL THE ENDS TERMINATE AT THE
ABOVE FLOOR DISTRIBUTION MANIFOLDS.
TO VIEW A PICTURE OF A COMPLETED MANIFOLD, CLICK HERE.
WHEN YOU ARE BULDING A HOUSE THAT IS CLOSE TO THE WATER TABLE,
IT IS BEST TO INSTALL A VAPOR BARRIER AND A LAYER OF INSULATION
UNDER THE RADIANT HEAT. THE MOISTURE FROM THE GROUND, COMBINED
WITH THECHILL OF WINTER CAN MAKE A RADIANT HEAT SYSTEM WORK
OVERTIME IF YOU DON'T.
THERE ARE TWO SCHOOLS OF THOUGHT ON THIS ...
THE BUILDERS THAT DON'T DO IT SAY IT'S A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.
THE BUILDERS THAT DO, SAY IT ISN'T .
IT REALLY DEPENDS ON THE THERMOSTAT,
AND HOW HIGH YOU WANT TO SET IT.
